Skip to Content

Everest Base Camp Trek Blog: A Day by Day Guide

Everest base camp Trek Blog Day One: Kathmandu to Phakding

My Everest Base Camp Trek Blog starts very early on Day One in Kathmandu. You quickly learn that the best weather of the day for Everest Base Camp trekking is first thing eg 5 or 6 am.

To get to Lukla you want to be on the first flight out of kathmandu as anything can happen with the weather and many delays. This is also when it is an excellent time to be travelling with an organised tour as they have a lot of clout in terms of seats on airlines!

My Complete Everest Base Camp Packing Guide

looking out of a plane window onto a propellor and the himalayas on the way to Lukla nepal
View from my seat on the plane from Kathmandu to Lukla

Flying to Lukla

signs against railing at lukla airport on my everest base camp trek blog
Welcome Signs at Lukla Airport

We got on the first flight out – flying from Kathmandu to Lukla on a 14 seater – and headed to the world’s scariest airport Lukla! The flight is quite spectacular – I had read to sit up the front on the left side as you enter from the back of the plane.

There were then 2 seats next to me. I had a great seat for most of the flight – but the seat next to me eg the middle seat of the first row had the best view of the runway and Lukla airport. It is a very short runway and then straight into a mountain.

I really enjoyed the flight but I am not a fearful flyer. It would be tough if you were. Upon arrival, we then got a coffee at a nearby lodge and waited for all of our bags to arrive.

Our bags came across 3 different flights. And then it was time to start the hike from Lukla to Everest Base Camp.

My Everest Base Camp Trek ItineraryWhat I did plus what I would have done differently.

the main street of Lukla Nepal
The main street of Lukla, kick-off for most everest Base Camp Treks

Lukla to Everest Base Camp: The beginning of the Trek

We walked through the rather small town of Lukla – the streets are full of people as well as “joeys” which is the name for the horses. Yaks don’t operate under 3000m – too warm for them with all that underbelly of hair – so the joeys take care of carrying bags etc at the lower levels.

signs for restaurants in lukla
The bustling Lukla food scene!
sign saying way to mt everest on a stack with prayer flags nepal
Always good to know you’re heading the right way

We had a beautiful first day of walking – clear skies. Unlike Kilimanjaro, which is entirely a national park and has no one living in it, – there is always something going on during the hike to  Everest base camp.

Villages, people, joeys, yaks, monasteries. The first day is a half-day of walking and it was a pretty relaxed session – a bit of up and down but not much.

Everest Base Camp Trek Difficulty Day One:       3/10


river and town of Phakding Nepal
The town of Phakding

We got into our first tea house Sunrise Lodge & Restaurant quite early – about 4 pm. We found our rooms and put in our dinner orders. The rooms at the nepal tea houses are basic as promised. Twin beds – each bed has a fitted sheet, a pillow with a pillowcase and a duvet of sorts.

I only used my sleeping bag as a base the first couple of nights as I would have been too hot in it. That and I hate sleeping bags as you really can’t move much in them but that’s what keeps you warm.

exteior of the Sunrise Lodge in Nepal
The first tea house

I wasn’t looking for a shower option at this Nepalese tea house as I had had one that morning. This was probably the only time on the Everest Base Camp Trek I really sat outside and read my book on the trip.

Dinner was fine – I was able to have a glass of wine with my vegetarian Momos so I was happy.

If you want to know more about Nepal Tea Houses on the trek – from showers to charging to the food – read all about it here.

trekkers ready to set off from the Sunrise lodge for the everest base camp trek
Getting ready to head off for the day

Everest Base Camp Blog Day Two: Phakding to Namche Bazaar

suspension bridge in Nepal on the everest base camp trek
One of many suspension bridges on the trek
the tip of Mount everest seen behind some clouds framed by trees
First view of Everest – well it’s behind the cloud

The Everest Base Camp Blog begins at 7 am on Day Two for an 8 am exit from Phakding. This was one of the toughest days of the Everest Base Camp trek in terms of physical exercise – 16km of rather relentless up and down – particularly the last two hours.

It is, however, quite a stunning walk. There are quite a few firsts on day two of the ebc trek – first suspension bridge, first entry into the official Sagarmatha national park and the first view of Everest weather permitting! We saw a hint of Everest which was very exciting. [separator type=”thick”]

Namche Bazaar

Green Tara hotel exterior in Namche Bazaar Nepal
Tea house at Namche Bazaar

Namche Bazaar is the London of the Everest Base Camp Trek. It is a busy and bustling village with lots of shops and restaurants. I was very excited to find lots of Illy coffee signs and takeaway coffees. And the coffee in Namche Bazaar wasn’t bad either.

Some treks have two nights here for acclimatization but we were only one night. We got into Namche Bazaar by about 4 pm which gave me time to have a quick wander. This is the last good place to pick up chocolate, biscuits, pharmacy items, gear for the trek etc etc.

Day Two Everest Base Camp Trek Difficulty:    7/10


bathroom at green tara tea house nepal
Shower at the Green Tara tea house
room at tara tea house nepal with woman sitting on bed
room at the tara hotel tea house

This was probably the best tea house of the Everest Base Camp Trek – The Green Tara Hotel. We even had our own ensuite – albeit the shower only had cold water. There were two excellent hot showers on a different floor of this Namche Bazaar tea house.

Most excitingly the owner of the Green Tara Hotel had a hairdryer that he allowed us to use free of charge. The owner here was very friendly and this tea house had a great feel. The Green Tara Hotel was also very very clean.

The town of Namche Bazaar seen from above
Namche Bazaar

Everest Base Camp Trekking Day Three:  Namche Bazaar to Khumjung

Namche Bazaar to Khumjung is one of the most stunning days of Everest Base Camp Trekking. We had earned our views after a very steep trek out of Namche. Our morning coffee stop was the best of the trip – the Everest View Hotel.

On the way there we got amazing views of Mount Everest – the scenery was just jaw-dropping.

view of mount everest along the everest base camp trek
The stunning mount Everest

⇒ And definitely log in to 12Go when you’re organising how you’re going to get around Nepal. This super easy to use platform has all modes of transport on the one platform and allows you to compare based on time, cost, and reviews.

stairs leading up to the hotel everest view hotel
Hotel Everest View
cup of coffee on terrace with mount everest behind
Coffee at the Everest View Hotel

The Everest View Hotel itself is lovely. There is a massive terrace that allows everyone to enjoy their coffee with what must be one of the best views in the world.

View over the town of Kunde Nepal
The town of Kunde
statue of sir edmund hilary kunde nepal
Sir Edmund Hillary statue Kunde

We then had a lovely trek down to Kunde where we visited the Edmund Hillary Hospital and learned about how emergency medicine works on the mountain and what had happened during the earthquake.

It was amazing what can be accomplished at such an altitude. We also visited a local school which is also funded by the Edmund Hillary organisation.

Prayer Books at Khumjung Monastery Nepal
Prayer Books at Khumjung Monastery

We then visited a monastery in Khumjung which was quite picturesque. It claims to have the only Yeti skull in the world. Of course, a fee is involved to see such an amazing icon.

It appeared to be kept in a rather non-museum like box in a cupboard. Two members of our group agreed to pay and the rest of us were told in no uncertain terms to pay up or head out of Khumjung monastery.

Day 3 Everest Base Camp Trek Difficulty:       4/10

Tea house in Khumjung Nepal
Tea house in Khumjung


communal area in tea house everest base camp trek nepal
The communal area in the tea house

Our tea house for night three was Amadablam View Lodge. This was nothing particularly exciting but it was decent and clean which is all that was needed and again I was able to have a hot shower which was exciting.

This marked my first consumption of Sherpa stew which became my signature dinner meal of the trip. I always went vegetarian – which tended to mean carrot and potato rather than anything green.

Hike to Everest Base Camp Day 4:   Kyanjuma to Tengboche 3867m

yaks trekking past trees and rock with nepalese writing
Yaks and prayers

The hike to Everest Base Camp Day four is blessedly more of a half-day as the altitude kicks up. It begins with a descending walk and then moves into a climb through the forest. We arrived in Tengboche around lunchtime.

This was one of my favourite places we visited on the trek. Tengboche has a lovely feel to it and it was one of the best tea houses in terms of food and it definitely won for the best coffee on the trek.

buildings in tengboche nepal with mountains behind
Arriving in Tengboche

In the afternoon we visited Tengboche Monastery, again a highlight of the trip. Every person who has climbed Mount Everest has visited this monastery to be blessed from Sir Edmund Hilary onwards.

We went to the afternoon prayer ceremony at Tengboche Monastery and it was packed. It was humbling and a bit awesome to be sitting where every Everest climber has sat.

tengboche nepal monks in a window making the call to prayer with shells
Tengboche monks making the call to prayer

The monks wander in and out of the ceremony, bringing some food, having a laugh and a chat and then picking up on the chanting. It is a very enjoyable hour and I highly recommend going to Tengboche Monastery.

If you love the outdoors check out my posts on a day by day guide in the Everest Base Camp Trek Blog, the best things to do in the Verbier Summer, Climbing Ben Nevis in Scotland, Best Ski Resorts in Italy, my Cappadocia Itinerary for Turkey, Inside the Volcano Iceland and Yosemite in One Day.

Day 4 Everest Base Camp Trek Difficulty:       5/10

tengboche monastery nepal
Tengboche monastery

Himalaya Trekking Day 5: Tengboche to Dingboche 4350m

The hike to Everest Base Camp Trek Day 5 has some spectacular walking and a lot of up and down. Well every day on the trek has a lot of up and down but I did seem to feel it more on Day 5 – and it added to get some great views.

Day 5 Everest Base Camp Trek Difficulty:    6/10

buildings with sign for home for old nuns on everest base camp trek
The home for old nuns!
white stupa on everest base camp trek with mountains in background
Stupa with a view
views across the mountains on the fifth day of the everest base camp trek
Stunning views on Day 5

Base Camp Trek Day 6: Acclimatisation Day Dingboche 4350m

dingboche tea house
View from the tea house in the morning
rocks with prayer flags overlooking mountains at Dingboche
Always prayer flags and scenic rocks

This is where I really started to feel the altitude. We did a decent-sized acclimatization climb to the Nangkartshang Peak which is 5100m. It was tough work.

The physical strain became very clear and the headaches were starting to get stronger. I also noticed at this point my appetite was quite shot and I was getting dependent on chocolate – and even that was an effort.

However, we were rewarded with some spectacular view which always helps and allowed for some great photos for the Everest Base Camp Trek Blog.

views from the altitude climb at Dingboche over the himalayas
Everest base camp trek day 6
the path from Dinboche altitude climb with clouds sitting over the himalayas
The stunning path

Getting down was almost more of a challenge than getting up. This was one of our first descents. I do prefer an ascent to descent in general. I always think I must have gone toppling down a mountain in a previous life.

Night two at the Dingboche tea house started to wear a bit thin – especially as it became very cold in the late afternoon with snow, They did offer clothes washing at this tea house but it was too cold to do so as they need to be able to hang the clothes outside to dry.

dingboche nepal
Heading back down to Dingboche

This was quite a big tea house though so there were a couple of communal warm areas. They also still had a good range of snacks and of course ginger, honey and lemon tea to help make the afternoon and evening go faster.

Day 6 Everest Base Camp Trek Difficulty:     6/10

Everest Base Camp Trek Blog Day Seven

view along the everest base camp trek on the seventh day leaving Dingboche
Morning on Day 7

The morning was one of if not the most stunning scenery of my Everest Base Camp Trekking. It is hard climbing to start off out of Dingboche but once you have ascended you are rewarded with absolutely spectacular 360 views. It is jaw-droppingly beautiful.

Broad views over Lobuche with multiple himalayan mountains in the background
Stunning peaks overlooking Lobuche

It is then some seriously high walking to the first-morning tea stop. I began to feel very weird and unwell at this point. I made it to the rest stop but it wasn’t easy and I was quite disoriented.

Anyway, I continued on and we made it to the very basic tea house in Lobuche. This was a difficult night as you are at just over 4900m so sleeping is tough and the need to urinate and the thirst frequent.

Day 7 Everest Base Camp Trek Difficulty:    9/10

everest base camp trekking path on the seventh day
Heading towards a much needed late morning stop

Everest Base Camp Blog Day Eight – Everest Base Camp

So this is the big day. An early start and some serious walking to get to Gorak Shep for lunchtime. I was feeling very lousy but I won’t bore you with all of those details.

It is tough to eat at this point and everyone is feeling the altitude. It is then a flat walk followed by some tough walking mostly due to the altitude to get to Everest Base camp.

Weather at base camp can be very mixed. Visibility was not great when we arrived but we were very lucky and the sun came out after we had been there for about 30 minutes. We spent one hour at Everest Base camp which was sufficient time.

You, of course, need to get your photo taken with the rock formations and prayer flags and there is quite a queue! And you need to get a group shot done here.

⇒ Korea is absolutely fascinating. Check out my posts on what to do for some inspiration: 8 Things to do in Gangnam, 13 things to do in Myeongdong, 8 things to do in Incheon, 7 Fantastic Seoul Boutique hotels, the best Seoul Day Trips, Where to Stay in Busan, the best things to do in Jeju Island, 15 Places to see Cherry Blossoms in Korea, 26 Beautiful Places in South Korea and the best things to do in Daegu. Then plan your trip with my Korea Itinerary, Seoul Itinerary, Jeju Itinerary, and Busan Itinerary.

everest base camp with lots of soft cloud
Poor visibility on Everest base camp on arrival

The views of the Khumbu icefall are fantastic. I had always wanted to see this as I have watched so many Everest movies and read so many Everest books. It appears to be pure ice and I have no idea how anyone climbs it.

No one ventures that far once you get to base camp as everyone is feeling the altitude. I felt dreadful but forced myself to go and take photos etc as heck I had made it now.

What you see when you arrive at everest base camp on the trek
Slight improvement in visibility at base camp

You don’t see climbers etc as the tents are scattered over quite a large area. It is most powerful to stay near where the rocks and prayer flags are as it allows you to get a good view over base camp.

Otherwise to be honest it would be a cold camping ground with some stunning mountains around it. The trek back was tough – about 2 hours.

The last hour is pretty flat thank goodness. I collapsed into bed as soon as we got back at 5 pm. It was another up at 2 am with a vice-like headache/loo issue evening as well which was not fun at 5100m. Definitely the worst night of the trip.

Day 8 Everest Base Camp Trek Difficulty:     10/10

Himalaya Trekking Base Camp Day Nine:

everest base camp trek heading down ground and mountains
The first day heading down

Day Nine gives you the option of getting up at 330am and ascending Kala Pattar. Of course, before the trip, I had been confident that I would want to do this.

On the trip, I would have rather stuck long hot needles into my eyes than do this! About half of our group went and half didn’t. Their photos were great but all said it was very tough.

⇒ Check out my posts on One Day in Tokyo, the best things to do in Kanazawa and what to expect on the Nakasendo Trail.

graves and tributes to those who have died climbing mount everest
The very sad tributes to those who have passed away on the mountain

This was a tough day as the Everest Base Camp Trek is 90% up and down whether you are going up or down so it is hard trekking. We ended the day in Pheriche.

This is where I ended up my trek as I felt so absolutely dreadful and was not recovering from altitude sickness as I should have been at that point. There was a doctor in Pheriche who agreed that I needed to head down and I got a helicopter out the next morning.

The rest of the group then had three days of trekking ahead of them and three more nights of tea houses before returning to Kathmandu. I spent those three days in bed sick as a dog so I definitely felt that I had made the right decision to head down sooner rather than later.

I was quite happy with the ending of my Everest Base Camp Trek Blog. Having said that, it was a difficult conversation with the leader of my trek, despite me having a certificate from a doctor to head down the mountain.

I clearly wasn’t about to die – which I openly stated – but I felt extremely sick and was sure that if I continued I would hurt myself. I hadn’t had a proper meal in four days and still had no appetite.

Also, I had Kilimanjaro for comparison where I had recovered my appetite and physical ability quite quickly after a much higher ascent. I soon realized that as always the key issue was around money.

It took me a while to realise how huge the cost to helicopter me out was from my guide’s point of view. I had asked one of the sherpas that day and he had estimated US$1200. I have to tell you that felt like a bargain to me at that point as I had been feeling so dreadful in such difficult conditions for several days.

Anyway, I offered to give him my credit card to book the helicopter and said that I would handle the whole process through my insurance company when I returned to London. This changed the conversation and got the helicopter going for the next day.

When I returned to London I completed my insurance claim and all of my costs were covered. I was far too unwell to continue – as I told the doctor if I felt like this at home I wouldn’t leave my flat let alone take on three more days of intensive trekking.

It was quite upsetting to be met with resistance when I had a doctor’s certificate and felt so unwell and initially I got quite upset and angry. However, a calm voice in my head said that I needed to get out of there and to get my credit card out and it worked.

Day 9 Everest Base Camp Trek Difficulty:    8/10

view from helicopter of the himalayas
Never has a helicopter been so welcome

How to get to Kathmandu:

Flights to Kathmandu

I flew to Kathmandu with Qatar Airways business class from London and it was a fantastic experience. Read all about it on my Qatar Airways business class review. And check out my Thai Airways Business Class Review and Malaysia Airlines Business Class Review and British Airways World Traveller Plus Review and Virgin Atlantic Premium Economy Review.

This is one trip where you MUST take out travel insurance! I certainly ended up using mine.

yaks carrying suppliers heading up the everest base camp trek
Mules heading up the trek

Everest Base Camp Trek Guided Tour Options

If you’re planning on heading up to Everest Base Camp check out this really good comparison of tour options on Viator.

I did the Everest Base Camp Trek with Exodus. Exodus is the biggest tour operator for Everest Base Camp so there are quite a few benefits in going with them in terms of expertise, access to the best teahouses etc.

They also know what they are doing and are very organised. As Exodus is a big deal in Nepal anyone working with them locally will be keen for this to continue and therefore service levels are pretty good.

Click here for Exodus Everest Base Camp Treks. 

In terms of UK based tour operators, we saw quite a few G Adventures groups during our trek. They tend to stay at the same kinds of tea houses and have a similar setup.

I have also heard that Intrepid is a good operator for base camp.

woman in front of pile of rocks and prayer flags at everest base camp
Pretending to feel good at Everest Base Camp

Boutique Hotels in Kathmandu

I recommend enjoying some luxury pre and post the Nepal Tea Houses! Without question, the best boutique hotel in Kathmandu is the lovely lovely Dwarika Hotel Kathmandu.

It was also my best place to visit in Kathmandu Nepal for its restaurants and stunning building.

It isn’t exactly boutique but as options at a higher boutique end are a bit low in Kathmandu I am going to list the Hyatt Regency Kathmandu.

Read reviews on TripAdvisorBook Now

Kathmandu has some more basic boutique hotels that offer great value for money. Dalai-La and Kantipur Temple House offer traditional Nepalese style.

Read reviews of Dalai-La on TripAdvisor Book Now

Read reviews of Kantipur Temple House on TripAdvisor Book

NowAria Boutique Hotel & Spa is somewhat more modern with its offer. Uniquely for Kathmandu, its interiors are heavy on white!

Read reviews on TripAdvisor Book Now

If you’re after a real treat check out my post on the stunning Dwarika’s Dhulikhel Resort – stunning Himalayan luxury.

everest-base-camp with mountains behind
Everest Base Camp

Who Paid for What in this Post

I covered my costs associated with most of this trip but Dwarika’s were kind enough to give me a discount on my accommodation costs. But as always my opinion is my own.

This post contains affiliate links. That means if you click through on them and end up making a purchase I will receive a small commission. This won’t affect the price that you pay. I just wanted to make sure that you were aware of this.


Like this post? Why not Pin It?

Everest Base Camp Trek Blog #everestbasecamp#everestbasecamptrek#everestbasecamptrekking
Nepal Tea House: What to Expect on the Everest Base Camp Trek
← Previous
9 Best Restaurants near Clapham Junction
Next →

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Like this post? Why Not Share It?

Thanks for Sharing!