People race north with their eyes on somewhere louder and bigger, and they miss one of England’s best old cities — plus a whole county that still feels rooted in the way places used to be: real history, real landscapes, and attractions that haven’t been turned into a circus.
And Durham is unusually easy to “do” as a trip, because it’s essentially four mini-destinations in one: the city, the countryside, the dales, and the Heritage Coast. You can base yourself in one of the area’s atmospheric hotels (more to come) and discover off the beaten track England.
Durham City
If you like cities that reward walking, Durham is your place. The whole centre is built for slow wandering: cobbles, steep little lanes, and those sudden views where the cathedral and castle appear like they’ve been waiting 900 years just to show off.
Flat White
I started where I start in any city: with caffeine. Flat White is known for coffee and brunch, and it’s the ideal first stop in Durham. There are two locations: grab their famous brunch at the location on Saddler Street and/or head to the cafe on Elvet Bridge.
Walk the River Wear loop
Durham’s “wow” factor isn’t just the cathedral — it’s the setting. The River Wear loops around the historic centre in a horseshoe bend, so you keep getting fantastic views up to the cathedral and castle perched above the trees. Development has been limited in this area so walking along the river often feels like stepping back in time.
Cross the Three Medieval Bridges
Speaking of history, Durham City has three photogenic medieval bridges: Prebends Bridge, Elvet Bridge, and Framwellgate Bridge. Prebends is best known for its photogenic views of Durham Cathedral and you may also catch rowers practising along the River Wear. Elvet Bridge and Framwellgate Bridge will take you into the heart of town and both feature interesting cafes, bars and stores.
Market Square and Saddler Street
Durham’s historic centre is compact and easy to explore on foot. Start at Market Place, the city’s main pedestrianised square, then walk up cobbled Saddler Street, which is lined with boutiques, cafés and restaurants.
Durham Market Hall
Durham Markets was established by an Act of Parliament in 1851. Today, the Market Hall is home to a mix of independent stalls and small shops selling everything from wine and stationery to Moroccan-style lamps, with plenty of good options for food and drink too. The Market is open Monday to Saturday 9am to 430pm and closed on Sundays.
Get lost in the alleyways
Durham does alleyways brilliantly — little passages, sudden turns and unexpected views. It’s one of the reasons it feels older and more intimate than most cities its size. You’ll also find unexpected treats hidden away in the alley ways like the fantastic Vennel’s Cafe.
Durham Castle
Durham Castle is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site with Durham cathedral, and it was an important power base in the Norman north. Today it is part of Durham University and actually serves as accommodation for some lucky students. It is still possible to visit Durham Castle but you’ll need to do it on an official guided tour rather than just popping in.
Durham Cathedral
This is Durham’s biggest attraction. Durham Cathedral is nearly 1,000 years old, and it still has that stomach-drop effect when you see it in person. This UNESCO site is described as the largest and finest example of Norman architecture in England. It was built in the late 11th and early 12th centuries to house the relics of St Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede.
It’s famous for its “innovative” vaulting that foreshadowed Gothic architecture. And in more modern times it was featured in the Harry Potter films. Don’t miss the Chapter House which was used as Professor McGonagall’s classroom in the first two films.
Head to the first floor in the cloisters and you’ll see an amazing mini construction of Durham Cathedral made entirely from lego – including the interiors. There is also an atmospheric cafe and a great gift shop.
The Cathedral is free to visit but donations are requested if possible. Normal visitor hours (when all areas are open) are Monday–Saturday 9.30am–4.30pm and Sunday 12 noon–3pm.
The Durham Dales
Once you’ve done the city, get out into the dales for some big-history estates..
Raby Castle
Beautiful Raby Castle was built in the 14th century by the Neville family — one of the most powerful northern families of the era. Today the castle is owned by Lord and Lady Barnard and they have done a brilliant job of evoking its medieval grandeur whilst incorporating some aesthetically desirable modern touches like the gorgeous gift shop and cafe.
Much of the exterior of the castle is intact and the Barnard family have done a wonderful job recreating the interiors including the very impressive area where carriages used to arrive.
But Raby is so much more than just a classic castle. Raby Park covers over 200 acres and is home to both red and fallow deer as well as some gorgeous swans. The 18th century Walled Gardens cover over 5 acres and include some very funky yew trees. Don’t miss the very stylish shop The Coach House and The Vinery is the perfect place to stop for a bite and a drink.
The Bowes Museum
One of the last things a visitor to the North of England would expect to find is a French chateau which makes The Bowes Museum an unexpected delight. The museum is built in the style of a French château, set within 22 acres of landscaped parkland, housing a world-class collection of over 58,000 objects. The museum was founded by Joséphine and John Bowes who wanted to share their passion for art with the local community.
There are 22 galleries within the Museum housing artists from Goya to Van Dyck as well as ceramics, fashion, textiles and more. The must-see item is the Silver Swan, an 18th-century automaton that performs daily at 2pm.
Cafe Bowes is a lovely spot for a delicious bite to eat inside the museum.
Durham Heritage Coast
If you want your Durham trip to end with sea air and a proper reset, the Heritage Coast is waiting. And it is only 20 minutes in a taxi from Durham Station.
Seaham Hall
Seaham Hall sits right on the Durham Heritage Coast in a beautiful listed house, and it has that rare mix of feeling genuinely historic while also looking seriously stylish. I went in January, when the coast is all moody skies and bracing sea air, and Seaham Hall felt like the cosiest possible base — the kind of place you step into and immediately slow down.
My room was huge and beautifully decorated, but also oh so comfortable. The bed was genuinely one of those sink-in-and-forget-the-world beds, and then there was the bathroom: not just a freestanding tub, but a fireplace right there as well. As if that wasn’t enough, there was a second fireplace in the main section of the room.
I enjoyed dinner at the Japanese-inspired Geko, which is tucked into the spa complex which means in bathrobe dining. The next morning I went classic in the main dining room with a two course breakfast of granola and greek yoghurt followed by eggs royale The staff deserve a mention too — so warm and friendly, the sort of service that makes the whole stay feel easy.
And then there’s the spa, which is really the headline. There are indoor and outdoor pools, a jacuzzi, two steam rooms, two saunas (including a salt sauna), a zen-style relaxation room, ice baths and more. Visiting in January made it feel especially cosy, but I kept thinking how gorgeous it must be in spring and summer when you can properly lean into the coastal setting between dips.
Check Prices and Availability for Seaham Hall
Seaham Hall Beach and Glass Beach
Seaham Hall beach is a wild, bracing stretch of the Durham Heritage Coast, with that classic North Sea feel — big skies, salty wind, and the kind of walk that clears your head in minutes. It is only a 5 minute walk from Seaham Hall. And another 5 minute walk away is Seaham’s Glass Beach, where the shoreline can sparkle with sea glass that’s been smoothed by decades of waves. I visited in January and I didn’t need an ice bath after hitting the beaches but gosh did my head feel clear!
Where to stay
On my trip to Durham I stayed at Seaham Hall for one night and spent my second at night at Lumley Castle. The minute you start climbing the old-school staircases and weaving through the interiors, you realise it’s the sort of place designed long before anyone cared about “easy navigation” — I was constantly getting lost, in the best possible way. Every turn seems to reveal another impressive staircase, a grand hallway, or a little tucked-away corner.
My room was a generous size, with a full four-poster bed that was also genuinely comfortable. The whole place leans into its history, right down to the fact that there’s a spot where people say you might see a ghost. Outside, the grounds are lovely for a wander, and there are courtyards within the estate for quiet moments.
Food and drink were a big highlight. There’s a great bar with an extensive wine list, and it’s exactly where you want to end the evening before retreating back into the maze of corridors. Knights Restaurant impressed me for both dinner and breakfast. And if you’re up early, it’s worth it: you can catch the sunrise with views stretching out towards Durham City.
Check Prices and Availability for Lumley Castle
Where to eat in Durham – a recap
Flat White
Coffee and brunch that actually deserves the hype (and it’s a great base for starting your day on foot).
Café Bowes
A genuinely handy and civilised museum café with a great atmosphere. I had lunch here and my beef and game pie was delicious.
The Vinery Café at Raby Castle
A restored Victorian glasshouse café, serving seasonal food with estate-sourced ingredients. It is casual dining but done stylishly.
Geko at Seaham Hall
Fantastic Japanese-inspired dining in the spa area of Seaham Hall. Yes, this means you can eat whilst wearing your bathrobe. I had dinner here and particularly enjoyed the high quality sashimi and yakitori.
The Dining Room at Seaham Hall
For the more traditional “proper hotel dinner” experience – and it is where breakfast is served if you’re staying at Seaham Hall.
Knights Restaurant at Lumley Castle
Knights Restaurant is Lumley Castle’s award-winning, more formal dining room, known for its elegant, candlelit setting with castle-style features like stone pillars and vaulted ceilings. It’s best known for classic dishes with a creative twist, served à la carte. I enjoyed an outstanding steak and some delicious potted crab.
Skip Durham and you miss the best of the region — it is so much more than just an awesome cathedral.
My trip to Durham was sponsored by This is Durham. However, all of the opinions in this article are my own.
This article includes affiliate links. That means if you click through on some of the links and end up making a booking I may receive a small commission.
Amanda O’Brien is the creator and editor of The Boutique Adventurer. She has visited 80 countries and is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers as well as the IFTWTA. She is passionate about wine had has just completed Level 3 of the WSET. Born in Australia, she lives in London.