I Walked the Camino de Santiago — Here’s What Surprised Me Most

When I decided to walk the final week of the Camino Portuguese, from Tui to Santiago de Compostela, I thought I knew exactly what I was signing up for: long days of walking, basic accommodation, and a few moments of quiet reflection between sore feet and the occasional café con leche.

If, like me, you’ve watched the Martin Sheen film The Way, you might picture the Camino as a string of nights spent in bunk-bed hostels, lugging a heavy backpack from one stop to the next. That does not need to be the case at all. My Camino had comfortable hotels, luggage transfers, wine tastings, and even a spa stop — and it was all a lot more enjoyable (and civilised) than I expected.

What I got was… different. In the best possible way.

Wine. Everywhere.

One of the reasons I chose the Camino Portuguese Coastal Route was because it passes through the Rías Baixas wine region — the home of Albariño. This light, crisp, slightly acidic white wine is perfect at the end of a long walking day, refreshing enough to revive you but full of flavour.

I tried countless local Albariños along the way — each with its own subtle differences — and one of the trip’s highlights was visiting Martín Códax, one of the region’s most well-known wineries. The vineyard is just a 20-minute cab ride from Pontevedra, and their tasting room is open from 5–7pm, making it an easy detour for pilgrims. Sitting with a glass in hand, overlooking rolling vineyards that meet the sea, I had to admit: this might be the most civilised pilgrimage in the world.

Accommodation That Surprised Me

A lot of the hotels along the route were, let’s be honest, one or two stars on a good day — but every single one was spotlessly clean and had excellent water pressure, which, after hours of walking, felt like the height of luxury. Two of the places we stayed were absolute standouts: one was a beautiful 16th-century building with a pool, the kind of place you’d expect on a proper holiday, not midway through a pilgrimage.

Three of my rooms even had balconies — perfect for airing out my walking shoes, sipping an evening glass of Albariño, or just watching the town wind down below.

Because the Camino passes through many small towns, accommodation options can be limited and they often book up quickly. My trip was organised by Follow the Camino (use the code Amanda10 for a discount), and they’d secured rooms at some of the best spots in town. Everywhere we stayed was full, so having an expert like Follow the Camino on your side is the best way to guarantee you’re sleeping in the nicest places available along the route.

And breakfasts? Always a treat. Every hotel, no matter how basic, put on a generous spread — from fresh orange juice to pastries, fruit, cheese, and those all-important coffee machines that keep pilgrims moving.

Walking Without the Luggage Hassle

One of the best discoveries? My big bag was picked up every morning and magically reappeared at my next hotel by evening, leaving me free to walk with just a day pack — water, snacks, and whatever I needed for the day.

The whole luggage collection and delivery was managed through Follow the Camino, who also organised my entire trip. They were brilliant from start to finish, making sure every detail — from accommodation to daily transfers — ran like clockwork. It’s hard to overstate how much easier and more enjoyable the walk was without the weight of a full pack on my back.

Yes, There’s Water — Lots of It

I hadn’t realised how often the route would bring me close to water. There were moments where I found myself walking along stretches of the Atlantic coast, sea breeze in my hair, wondering why more people don’t talk about this part of the Camino. It wasn’t just fields and cobblestones — it was ocean views.

Time to Actually Explore

I’d imagined each day would end with me collapsing on a bed, incapable of movement until the next morning. Instead, we often arrived in our overnight towns with enough time to wander cobbled streets, poke around local shops, or find a quiet square for a glass of wine. The Camino isn’t just about walking — it’s about where that walking takes you.

Local Food Worth Walking For

The food along the route was fantastic — rustic, fresh, and fiercely local. Think pulpo a la gallega, grilled sardines, hearty stews, and bread so good it didn’t need butter. If I was burning calories walking, I was happily putting them back on at dinner.

A Coffee Stop for Every Mood

Every few kilometres, there seemed to be a tiny, impossibly cute coffee place — sometimes just a bar with two tables, other times a bakery that smelled like heaven. Each one was a perfect excuse to rest my feet and watch the world (and fellow pilgrims) go by.

Meeting People Was So Easy

The Camino has this effortless social magic to it. Within a few days, I knew other walkers by name, shared meals with strangers who quickly became friends, and swapped stories over wine in tiny village squares. It’s one of the most welcoming travel experiences I’ve ever had.

Music Along the Way

It wasn’t just footsteps and birdsong — there were musicians scattered along the route, including Galician bagpipe players in traditional dress. Hearing that haunting, beautiful sound drifting over a hill while walking towards Santiago was pure magic.

Yes, the Hotels Had Air Conditioning

A small detail, perhaps, but a deeply appreciated one — especially after a day walking in the summer heat.

A Spa Stop I Didn’t See Coming

The route I took meant spending a night in Caldas de Reis, a thermal spa town that feels tailor-made for weary pilgrims. There are a few public fountains dotted around where you can soak your tired feet in wonderfully warm, soothing water — and plenty of people do. But the best option by far is to splurge on a half-day pass at Balneario Acuña. This gives you access to the hotel’s two thermal water pools: one cooler and perfect for lounging, the other warmer and ideal for easing aching muscles.

If you’re more organised than me, book ahead for a massage — they’re exactly what your body will be crying out for after days of walking. I was also pleasantly surprised to find that many of the hotels along the route offered in-room massages, so you could skip the spa altogether and have your pampering brought straight to you.

The Padrón Pepper Pilgrimage

One of my favourite stops was the town of Padrón, famous for its small green peppers. Fried in olive oil and sprinkled with coarse salt, they’re simple, addictive, and carry the delicious suspense of the occasional fiery one. Worth every step to get there.

Animals at Every Turn

Another unexpected joy of the Camino was the sheer number of animals we met along the way. Gorgeous cats stretched out in sunny doorways, friendly dogs trotted up for a quick hello, and the occasional sheep or cow grazed lazily in fields beside the path. In one stretch, a chorus of rather loud frogs provided the soundtrack to our walk.

These little encounters added so much to the atmosphere — a reminder that the Camino isn’t just about the people you meet, but also the creatures who share the route with you.

A Journey to Remember

Walking the Camino Portuguese was nothing like I’d pictured. It was easier in some ways, harder in others, and filled with moments I didn’t see coming — from wine tastings to unexpected ocean views, spa stops to pepper feasts, bagpipe music to four-legged companions. If you’ve been thinking about it, my advice is simple: go. And be prepared for a few surprises of your own.

NB: As I mentioned earlier my trip was sponsored by Follow the Camino but I wouldn’t talk about them in such a positive manner if it hadn’t been a great trip – and I would definitely travel with them again. If you’re going to book use the code Amanda10 for a discount.